Name:	rdfarr -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/30/2016 1:08:53 PM

The 3/4 HP (110v) electric motor to my dock lift suddenly now goes down but not up.  I've had the capacitor replace once, but I think it's blown again.  It always had margin lift capability.  I think it may be undersized.

I think I need a bigger motor.  Who specializes is this area? 

Name:	wix -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/30/2016 2:59:30 PM

BH-USA link is attached.  Good equipment at a good price. From Texas.

http://bh-usa.com/

Name:	Shortbus -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/30/2016 3:52:57 PM (updated 10/30/2016 3:58:13 PM)

If the motor starts quickly & moves it is not the capacitor and likely not the motor.

It is a switch, relay, wire, or bad connection.

Look for loose wires or burned connections.

You related to John III?

If the motor is too small or there is a high load, it will run slower up than down.

If slow enough going up, the start capacitor may kick in and blow.

Squeaky wheel might need grease.

Name:	rdfarr -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/30/2016 7:42:35 PM

  The lift goes down fine. It start to labor as the boat is coming out of the water, and then will "skip" , i.e., slow down and speed back up more and more as more of the boats weight is on the lift.  

Last year, there was a "pop" and the motor quit during the skipping phase.  I took it to an elec repair place in Auburn, and they replaced a capacitor.  After that, the motor worked same as before.  As soon as the motor would slow down - speed up, I'd stop it as just soon as the boat was out of the water.

Yesterday, my wife tried to lift the boat higher and the motor quit.  She said she heard a hissing sound just beforehand. Another blown capacitor? 

The motor is 3/4 HP, and the boat is a 23' cuddy cabin with a 220 HP merc OB.  I think the boat is too heavy for the motor and that I should go to at least a 1 HP motor.  Does that sould like the right solution? 

Name:	MrHodja -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/30/2016 8:00:22 PM

I agree with Shorty that if the motor starts and runs it isn't the capacitor.  The function of a capacitor in electric motors is to give it a jolt of electrons when the motor turns on.  Doesn't have anything to do with the motor torque after it reaches its operating RPM.

I guess the question I would have I this: when th e lift was first installed did the motor lift the boat OK, or has it always been marginal?  If when first installed it had plenty power, then the wiring/connectors/switch might be the problem.  Where did the hissing noise come from, the motor or somewhere else?  If the motor you might need to have it repaired or replaced.  If somewhere else you might have a loose connection in the wiring that, over time, arced until it can no longer handle the current.  I had a problem with a circuit in my house one time....dishwasher wouldn't run but the supply showed voltage present.  I finally went to the breaker panel and pulled that breaker...it had not been seated properly and arced over time to the point that the contacts were almost completely eaten away.  There was enough of a connection to show voltage to the meter, but not enough metal to metal contact to pass the current necessary to operate the dishwasher.  Compare it to hooking a garden hose and a fire hose to a common water supply.  Both will register the same pressure (in electrical circuits voltage), but the fire hose will pass far more water (in electrical circuits, current, or amperes).

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

Name:	Lifer -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/30/2016 8:09:21 PM

I have a motor that used to run a pump that froze and cracked. I'm not sure what size.  It may be 3/4hp too.  I will have to look. If it will work you can have it real cheap. I don't think it makes any difference but I would check to see if the motor can be switched to run on a 220v circuit. Most can run either. If it is a newer motor it is as simple as flipping a switch on the motor and moving a wire from the neutral bar in your main box. It should be on a circuit by itself but may be on the same 110 circuit as your other electrical on the pier. If it is you may be able to split the circuit and use 220 for the pump and split a 110 for lights and outlets by adding a sub panel. I did this for my irrigation pump . I'm not sure if using 220 increases the torque though. What say you shortbus? Would he be better using 220?

Name:	Shortbus -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/30/2016 8:51:03 PM (updated 10/30/2016 9:54:26 PM)

220 gives you twice the voltage but 4 times the power for the same size wire and amps.

I would check with the manufacturer and find the rated load for the lift.

Compare to boat weight.

Make sure the motor is the right size for that rating.

I see a big boat that will cause problems if anything is not perfect.

Too long a wire and/or too small a wire.  Check voltage while lifting.

Might need to be a 220 install for full load and very long wire.

Binding mechanicals needing grease possibly.

Sounds like your motor is under heavy load, losing RPM, and kicking back into start.

Hiss is the cap venting.  Time for a capacitor at least.  Don't run it until you do all above.

Don't leave it humming.  Shut off.

When the start kicks in and torque increases,  you have one second to shut it off with the new capacitor.

Is your boat full of water? 

Name:	PC Al -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/30/2016 9:40:27 PM

I ran my lift on 110v for several years but it always was a problem on the lift cycle.  If I stopped during the lift and tried to resume, it would blow the breaker.  Also sounded like it was in a serious strain.  Had it rewired to 220v last year and it spins like a top.  Wish I had not waited so long.  

Name:	alatraveler50 -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 9:40:08 AM

Sounds as though you possibly have several things going on.  First, motor size.  Sounds as if your boat is too heavy for a 3/4hp motor.  Second, wiring size and distance from source.  Check out this chart from BH-USA, http://bh-usa.com/instructions-manuals/.  "Electric Motor Wire Size Chart".  Third, check out ALL connections; motor, switch, any inline connections, electrical panel.  BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER AT YOUR PANEL!!!  You don't want to leave it to your wife to have to figure this out! (not saying anything about your wife)

Name:	alatraveler50 -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 9:41:37 AM

Also, when was the las time you greased ALL joints?

Name:	rdfarr -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 10:43:30 AM

I've carefully read each and every comment.  I appreciate all the feedback. 

- I thought the motor was inop, but on testing it again yesterday, it goes down but NOT up. Not enough power.

- I'm pretty sure the problem is big boat, little motor.  My previous boat was a 17' center console with 50HP motor.  No problem.

- Also, friction from the two metal hanger mounts for the winding shaft are probably a contributor, but not the main problem. 

- I hope that by going to a 1 HP motor and keeping the hangers well lubed, it will solve the problem. 

- I'm afraid of 220v on a boat dock.  Think I'll pass on that suggestion even though it's a good one. 

- Any suggestion on who locally could replace a new motor for me?  To get to the motor, one has to stand on top of the cabin of the boat.  It's a bit awkward.

Rhett on Dead Timbers Bay

Name:	Weatherly -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 4:00:40 PM

Call Donald Schultz  Deep Water Services 256-373-3220

Name:	alatraveler50 -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 5:38:45 PM

Just as an FYI, if you have two 110V circuits going to your pier then you have 220/240v.

Name:	Lifer -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 6:01:46 PM

Not to mention 220 is generally safer because it will knock you away,  110 is just enough to grab and hold you. Saw it once as a kid when a friend hit the trigger on an old electric drill standing on a wet sidewalk.  Scared crap outta me. Not literally but it made an impression.

Name:	MrHodja -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 6:33:12 PM

Wouldn't that only be true if the hot sides came from different buses...as I understand it electrical service into the house is +110, neutral, and -110.   You have to have one hot side of your 110 plug be plus 110 and the other minus 110 to get a potential difference of 220 volts. If you put one lead of a meter on the hot side of one of the circuits and the other lead on the hot side of the second circuit and get a zero reading the best you will do is 110.

Name:	Shortbus -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 6:54:11 PM

@ Hodja     Correct

@ Lifer       There is no difference between a 220 shock and a 110 shock.  Usually someone contacts a hot leg and is shocked to ground.   The shock is the same 110v.    You have to try to get a 220v shock.  In England you get a 220v shock.

The way not to be electrocuted is to never stand in water and never grab around a pipe.  Electrocution happens when your muscles tense and grab you tighter into the juice.  Touching with a finger will knock you away.

@  Dead Timbers      Too small a wire or too low volts for 3/4 horse is still too small for 1 horse. Call manufacturer with boat weight.

The 220 shock hazard is same as 110.    Install 110 ground fault outlets or breaker if concerned.

Name:	Lifer -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	10/31/2016 7:55:36 PM

I know you are technically correct but I have been hit by both and the 220v sure felt worse. The muscle spasm/contraction is what got my friend when we were 13. He wanted to let go but couldn't. He probably was juiced for 8 to 10 seconds before somebody unplugged the extension cord. The fact that drills had metal cases then too certainly didn't help any. In those days you could watch them arc through the slots in the side. We were just dumb kids but we both learned a lesson that day. He just shook it off and we went right back to working on the bicycle. Today's little participation trophy snowflakes would be rushed to a trauma center I'm sure. I actually saw a women bring her son to the E.R. to get a ticket off his head.

Name:	Lifer -	Reply
Subject:	Surely You Are Kidding!
Date:	10/31/2016 7:57:33 PM

What's the deal with Donnie shultze?

Name:	alatraveler50 -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	11/1/2016 9:55:27 AM

You are right, I wasn't thinking.

Name:	Lake Martin Dock Company -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	11/10/2016 1:48:55 PM

Hopefully you have fixed your motor or sorted the possible overweight issue.  If you still need a motor, etc.  Feel free to give us a ring, as we have a large inventory of used lifts and motors that might help you out.  As you can imagine, we replace a lot of lifts, and many are just because the owner has out grown them, thus they still work.

David

Name:	Buteye -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	11/10/2016 4:57:39 PM

I intended to respond earlier but it slipped my mind. Like you, my son bought a larger boat and it was too heavy for the lift. We doubled the length of the lift cables, which doubles the mechanical advantage, and the lift works fine. That's not to say that you don't need a larger motor, but it is a possibility. Hope that helps.

Name:	rdfarr -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	11/10/2016 5:40:42 PM

I'm not sure how that works.  Maybe you have a different setup me?  (See photo)

Name:	Buteye -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	11/10/2016 7:43:01 PM

No picture available.

Name:	Shortbus -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	11/10/2016 9:46:56 PM (updated 11/10/2016 9:48:46 PM)

This is already double line/ 1/2 speed  / most torque?

Name:	Buteye -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	11/10/2016 9:59:27 PM

Agree. Your cables are alredy like what I was suggesting.

i

Name:	rdfarr -	Reply
Subject:	Boat lift motor problem
Date:	11/11/2016 6:35:56 AM

Ok. Thanks.