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| Name: |
laureleg
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| Subject: |
need to put in sprinkler system
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Date:
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7/26/2010 12:59:12 AM
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Want to hear from folks that have sprinkler systems using lake water that do not have year round water. What are the pros and cons and how do you do it. thanks for you answers.
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| Name: |
Mack
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| Subject: |
need to put in sprinkler system
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Date:
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7/26/2010 10:44:54 AM
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As the water level goes down during the Fall, keep adding length to your intake pipe for as long as possible, keeping the tip suspended above the mud. In my case, I can keep pumping well into late October/early November, depending on rainfall. By then, the grass is becoming dormant anyway, When you must stop pumping, DRAIN the system completely, all the way out to the intake tip. An exposed plastic pipe full of water is a sitting duck for a hard freeze.
Cons: Cannot water year round if you need to. If you need to water in Winter, consider installing the proper shunt between the lake supply and drinking water supply, to switch back and forth.
Pros: Lake water is not treated, and plants/grass "think" it is raining. I rarely use any chemicals to fertilize or spray bugs.
Pros: Water pressure is constant and is easily adjusted at the pump points.
Pros: Lake water is free, except for the power for the pump
Pros: I'm not stressing my well for drinking water
Good luck.
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| Name: |
lakngulf
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| Subject: |
need to put in sprinkler system
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Date:
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7/26/2010 11:17:07 AM
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What he ^ said. I know some folks who have all the pipe buried enough and far enough in the lake to pump year round, but there is always the risk of freeze. I do exactly what Mack has described, pump well into the fall and then drain. Trouble is I normally wait until that freeze is right on us before I drain the pipes, and it is COLD.
Also, my intake pipe is so long that it takes a while to prime the pump in the spring---very difficult to get the air out of the pipe. One solution I had thought of was to put a valve off a T near the intake valve. I could open it up to drain the pipe, have it open when I am putting water in during the spring. Once water is flowing through all the pipe, I shut it off and the pipe is full of water without the air. One major issue I see is that the valve off the T could get damaged easily. Any thoughts on this?
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| Name: |
Ulysses E. McGill
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| Subject: |
need to put in sprinkler system
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Date:
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7/26/2010 11:25:57 AM
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Good info from Mack. My water pickup is about 7 feet below full pool and that works fine as there is usually no need to water when the lake is below that level. If we have another drought, I will extend the pipe. I put in the system myself 2 1/2 years ago and saved a bunch (4 to 6K depending on the estimate). It was not hard to install after I spent the time doing proper homework.
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| Name: |
Lifer
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| Subject: |
Another consideration
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Date:
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7/26/2010 1:11:48 PM
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So far you have gotten great advice on sprinkler systems. There is a viable alternative that still offers all the benefits, but with less upfront costs, less maintenence, and greater flexibillity. Instead of inground sprinkler heads just install outdoor spigots at strategic locations around the yard and use hoses and sprinklers. It is a little more trouble to cover the entire yard maybe, but it works great without the issues of buried sprinkler heads. Especially using lake water that has more sediments that can wreck havoc on some 'heads'. You also have the option to use the hoses/spigots for other uses also.
Yards tend to change over time and a hose/sprinkler system is much more flexible. The upfront costs is much less because typically you will need much less trenching, therefore destroying less of the yard you are trying grow. You can also install a pressure tank that will maintain pressure without the pump running continuosly, thereby redcuing costs. The pumps are rated 'continuos duty' but why run continuosly if not needed. Most can also be hooked up either 110v or 220v. Take the 220v option, it will use less electricity in the long run. You may also be able to get by with smaller pump using this option. But it is better to have to much pump than too little.
One other thing. Make sure the foot/check valve is suspended off the lake bottom at LEAST 6 inches. Anchor the pipe to the bottom, but suspend the foot valve to avoid picking up excess sediment. Depending on where it is in the slough and water depth you may want to mark it with some type of bumper/float to avoid boats hitting it.
I hope this helps you to make an imformed decision.
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| Name: |
Mack
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| Subject: |
need to put in sprinkler system
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Date:
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7/26/2010 2:19:39 PM
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Likewise, I and my son installed my system maybe 12/13 years ago. Still works great. However, at the time I was too cheap to rent a power trencher. Yep, we did it with pickaxes and shovels, in hard clay and rock soil. Never, never again. I'd hock my favorite beer mug before doing it that way again.
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| Name: |
lakngulf
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| Subject: |
need to put in sprinkler system
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Date:
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7/26/2010 2:26:47 PM
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I put mine in myself as well. This is my third summer to use it. I did rent the ditch-witch. I was not aware that Mack had so much experience with a pickaxe or I would have called on him.
Couple of additional points: (1.) I agree with Lifer below that spigots are great. I ran six of them off the main line of my irrigation system, so they can run when any irrigation zone is running....this is great for boat washing, grandkid sprinklers, running pressure washer, garden watering directly to plant, etc. (2.) I have one zone running solely to a waterfall that I built. With the irrigation controller on the screen porch near the waterfall, I can turn it on at any time (3) Also, in agreement with Lifer, the pump will bring in trash from the lake, so be sure you have a good filter on the line---btw, I need to check mine.
Good luck with your decision.
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| Name: |
Lifer
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| Subject: |
Also, I forgot.
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Date:
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7/26/2010 4:22:27 PM
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Call Richard Murray at 256-749-1695. He has a trencher and does contract work. I rented a trencher when I did mine. It was not much easier to operate than the shovel and pick axe. I wish I had known Richard back then.
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