| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/18/2006 2:01:09 PM
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Interesting topic, huh? Anybody have a ballpark figure as to what it should cost to have one replaced?
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| Name: |
Lakeman
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/18/2006 4:41:19 PM
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If you're talking about the one between the meter and the house it shouldn't be any more than $50 if you do it your self.
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| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/18/2006 5:22:47 PM
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Thanks, Lakeman.
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| Name: |
CAT BOAT
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| Subject: |
Regulator
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Date:
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2/18/2006 6:00:07 PM
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It's called a regulator, and you should bd able to get one at Lowes, Home Depot, or maybe even a local hardware store.
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| Name: |
Lakeman
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| Subject: |
Regulator
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Date:
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2/18/2006 6:25:46 PM
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I think I gave about $35 at Russell Do-It Center couple years ago and about 30min. to change it. Don't forget Teflon tape or some kind of sealant. Also mine had the screw on it to adjust the pressure to the house.
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| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
Regulator
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Date:
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2/18/2006 7:04:56 PM
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Thanks a lot for the info........I was hesitant to tackle it on my own so I am
paying thru the nose for a weekend job.
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| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
Regulator
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Date:
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2/18/2006 7:07:12 PM
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While we're on this subject, do any of you have to use a thermal expansion tank at your water heater inlet?
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| Name: |
lakeplumber
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| Subject: |
Regulator
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Date:
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2/19/2006 11:04:54 AM
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I put in water pressure regulators for $75.00 ...I supply the regulator and labor and misc materials.
Thermal expansion tanks arn't usually required at the water heater on homes unless your plumbing system has solenoid valves in it (washing machine and automatic lawn sprinkler systems) usually with an added backflow valve at the meter. Normal cost for this is usually $50.00 labor plus parts.
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| Name: |
lakeplumber
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 11:06:52 AM
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Just curiuos....were your pipes banging? If not why did you install the regulator? Regulators usually do not stop the pipe noises.
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| Name: |
Lakeman
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 11:51:20 AM
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As for myself ( if I remember correctly ) my water pressure had gotten extremely low. I called the Walnut Hill Water Authority out and upon checking they said I needed to change the valve. This was after doing all the adjustments I could to get better water pressure. Upon changing the valve my water pressure was fine.
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| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 12:18:04 PM
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Thanks, Lakeplumber. My problem was that my pressure would read around 30 psi with a faucet open...then, when closed, it would continue to
creep upward--even beyond 150 psi....and as luck would have it, the lower thermostat on the water heater stuck in the on position...needless to say, I blew the hello out of the T&P valve...
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| Name: |
lakeplumber
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 4:10:39 PM
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Let me know if you need a plumber to install a water heater. By the way....athermal expansion tank would not have helped in your case. It is fortunate the T&P valve functioned properly, you could have blew up your house!
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| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 4:34:50 PM
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I'm really dumbfounded now. I had a whole new contraption in my meter box replaced this morning....the shut-off valve, back-flow preventer, and
regulator. With cold water in my water heater tank and no electricity going to it, I keep a constant 65 psi in all my pipes including the reading from the bottom of the water heater (drain spigot). I put in a brand new
lower thermostat today also. I turn on the power to water heater with
pressure gauge attached to drain spigot and both thermostats set at
123 deg. and here's what happens:
++top element heats fine then shuts off o.k. and power then is sent to lower element........lower element stays on very long time until I adjust the
temp down to 90 deg....then it cuts off...meanwhile the pressure in the tank goes from 65 psi all the way up to 145 psi (that is when i bailed out
and ran the lower thermostat down to 90 and the element cut off at that
point)
++I took the pressure gauge off the tank and took it to an outside faucet and it was reading about 142 psi there until I opened a faucet and released pressure...then everything stabilized back to 65 psi...ideas????????
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| Name: |
lakeplumber
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 5:35:38 PM
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I am curious... did you check the water temp (even though you replaced the lower element, it might be the thermostst still telling the element to continue making hot water until it starts generating pressure, not likely though). You say this happens only when power to water heater is activated. The only way that a constant volume of water can increase thus increasing the pressure is through heat. I would suggest checking the water heater thermostst and make sure some contacts are not stuck. Could bethat the element was not faulty at all. just the controls. That is my theory anyway, I'd have to look at this system to make a more accurate determination.
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| Name: |
Maverick
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| Subject: |
Lake Plumber
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Date:
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2/19/2006 5:44:44 PM
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Have been looking for a good plumber on the Lake (seems like everyone is to busy to do the smaller jobs). Can you email me or post to forum either one -- Your contact info, hourly rate and also if you charge a trip charge.
And what part of the Lake your service, as I am on the Alex City side.
Thanks
.
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| Name: |
lakeplumber
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| Subject: |
Lake Plumber
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Date:
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2/19/2006 6:55:33 PM
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Phone numberv (334) 285-9882 Wetumpka
Cell number (334) 612-9863
Fax: (334) 285-9882
email: Jmwaites@cs.com
Free estimates (I'm usually already up around the lake anyhow). Small company low overhead=lower prices. 25 years experience. State certified master plumber.
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| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 7:32:01 PM
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Thanks, Lakeplumber......I did not replace any elements...they all seem
to check out o.k. (both had same continuity reading)...I replaced the lower
thermostat.....the new one did not cut off either until the pressure got way too high.....I am totally befuddled...I am going to test the water temp tomorrow and go from there...I am afraid that most of my problems
can be summed up in one word....WHIRLPOOL...........
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| Name: |
lakeplumber
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 7:58:23 PM
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If youhave a meter, check to see if voltage is going to element when the thermostat is at the lowest setting....IT SHOULD NOT. I would do this before doing something expensive. Please take a bad water heater seriously...they can destroy a home and lives.
James
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| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
Water Pressure Reducing Valve
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Date:
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2/19/2006 8:35:47 PM
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Yeah, I was using insulated rubber gloves and put my digital meter set to 500 v ...top stat and high limiter seemed to be working fine...lower stat only cuts off when I back it down to lowest setting...it seems to be resting firmly against the tank....guess it's possible the new one could also be
bad.....thanks for the warning about the heater tank dangers....I saw some pictures on the net where water heaters had demolishing buildings....scary...that's why I shut the power down completely when
it kept driving the psi up near 150.....
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| Name: |
roswellric
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| Subject: |
I wonder
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Date:
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2/21/2006 8:40:54 AM
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if the pickup tube has somehow become disconnected.....Hmmm.... but that would tend to keep the upper element on wouldn't it--assuming the there was a thermostat sensor near both elements? Weird.
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| Name: |
BigFoot
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| Subject: |
I wonder
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Date:
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2/21/2006 12:24:37 PM
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This really has been a mystery but I believe now that the problem is
Thermal Expansion. I am putting in an expansion tank today and
hope that this will keep my pressure down within reasonable limits.
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| Name: |
JIM
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| Subject: |
I wonder
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Date:
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2/21/2006 3:45:42 PM
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How many Lake Martin residents does it take to change a light bulb?
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| Name: |
roswellric
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| Subject: |
How Many
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Date:
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2/21/2006 8:51:13 PM
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posters are on this forum? We could practice at Niffers.....
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